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Many people new to goats have a pre-conceived view on what they are capable of. I know when we first started out, we thought goats were virtually indestructible. However, over the years and with a few hard lessons, research after research, and guidance from several reputable breeders, we have learnt many things in relation to goats and their needs. Here are a few things that all new goat owners need to consider.
FIRST STEP: The first thing you will need to do prior to owning goats is to obtain a Property Identification Code (PIC number). It is a simple application through the Local Lands Services in NSW (other states may vary). This is a legal requirement for any property owner who has livestock on their property, regardless of whether they are pets or otherwise.
More information and how to apply for a PIC can be obtained from this website: https://www.lls.nsw.gov.au/i-want-to/apply-for-a-property-identification-code
ANY responsible breeder will not sell you a goat unless you have a valid PIC number. When a PIC number is issued, we recommend that you contact your local council before purchasing, as additional restrictions may apply. Some councils may only allow a certain number of goats, dependant on your land size, and may act, if goats are housed in residential areas.
COMPANIONS: Goats are a herd animal and need a companion. Single goats will fret, can make themselves sick looking for friends, and become lonely and depressed without company. At Scapegoat Minis, we WILL NOT sell single goats to anyone who does not already have goats or is getting another goat/s from elsewhere. Reputable breeders are of the same belief when it comes to selling single goats, so please don’t be offended if we decline to sell a single goat.
SHELTER: Contrary to popular belief, you would think goats should be used to being out in the weather, right??? We’ve found our Pygmy goats don’t like to get wet. We still giggle at them running back to their shelters with the slightest fall of rain. Shelters can be as basic as a large dog kennel, a cut out IBC tank or old spa bath, or you can build the Taj Mahal of goat shelters.
As goat can be susceptible to pneumonia, waterproof housing and somewhere to escape the cold of the wind especially in winter is a must. The Australian summer can be brutal, so shade is also a must. When preparing for your newly acquired friends, consider how big your goats may get, and how many you expect to have. They will need somewhere big enough for them to sit, stand and lay when required. Approximately 2-3sqm per goat is recommended.
FENCING: A well-constructed fence is required when owning goats. They can and will jump, push, rub, climb and go under fencing. Many breeders will have their own standards when it comes to fencing. At the Scapegoat Minis farm we have constructed fencing that suits our needs. We run a 900mm square “hinge joint” fence, tight to the ground, with 2x strands of single wire above the hinge joint on the majority of our paddocks with no issues. Aa single strand of electric fence around the perimeter is also a common addition to some breeders/owners. Another consideration is the width of squares that is between each run. Some smaller goats may be able to squeeze themselves through squares until they get bigger in size.
PREDATORS: There are several potential predators to goats, however the main predators are wild or unsupervised dogs wandering the neighbourhood. Foxes, wedge-tailed eagles and feral pigs can also pose as threats to goats, especially if they are of a miniature breed or young kids. If you have National Parks, State Forest or bushland bordering your property then fencing to protect your precious little friends is especially important. It may be that fencing will need to be heightened to prevent dogs etc attempting to jump over or you may also need to place a skirt at the bottom of the fencing to avoid dogs etc pushing under fencing. We also utilise Fox lights from https://www.foxlightsaustralia.com.au/ to assist us in protecting our goatee family.
WATER: Fresh clean water should always be available for your goats. Goats can drink 4-5 litres of water a day, twice that if lactating. Automatic water feeders are a great way to keep water available to goats with minimal effort.
DIET: The majority of people think goats can and will eat anything, but this is not the case. Unlike sheep, goats are browsers, not grazers, so will eat a variety of grass, leaves, bark, sticks etc. They generally know what they need to fill their diet, however if there is not a sufficient amount of ‘browse’ available to them, they may decide to feast on other not so healthy options. If their daily diets aren’t met, they will require supplement feeding and/or mineral blocks or supplements to be supplied to them.
A great treat for our goats that can be given once a week or so and utilised as a training tool for some of those more unfriendly goats, are Weetbix. One or maybe two Weetbix broken into smaller pieces can be fed as a treat to adult goats or crushed up for little goats. Just don’t go giving them too much. Other treats that can be given include things like, pumpkin, sweet potato, carrots, apples, banana skins and celery among other fruits and vegetables, but one of the main vegetables to avoid are tomatoes or anything from the “nightshade” family as these are toxic to goats.
Pregnant does and wethers may need different dietary requirements. A diet high in phosphorus to calcium ratio should be avoided to prevent urinary calculi (kidney stones). This can be especially important when feeding wethers. Diets which are high in grains, phosphorus and magnesium but low in roughage and calcium such as hay etc can increase the risk of urinary calculi. A Calcium to Phosphorus ratio of 2:1 is recommended to help prevent stones. A sudden change in the diet can cause a digestive upset, resulting in scours, intense pain and potentially death. Goat owners should avoid feeding their goats off the ground as this is a breeding ground for the deadly “Barbers Pole Worm”, a blood sucking worm. We feed all our goats from hay feeders and dog bowls.
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